prusik knot การใช้
- This knot is similar to the Prusik knot and the Klemheist knot.
- The first Prusik knot provides the mechanical advantage.
- The Prusik knot can withstand load in both directions, making it ideal for climbing situations.
- It is used similarly to a Prusik knot or the Bachmann knot to ascend or descend a climbing rope.
- The typical configuration ( see diagram ) uses two single pulleys and two Prusik knot loops or other suitable friction hitches.
- The knot is similar to the prusik knot, however it grips the rope more consistently, making for increased climber control.
- Small kernmantle ropes are commonly called accessory cords; they are often used to make prusik knots and loops or to attach accessories such as chalk bags.
- In German, which is what is spoken in Austria where the Prusik knot was created, an exclamation at the end of a sentence implies a command.
- The second Prusik knot can be used to hold the position of the rope and is sometimes referred to as a'progress capture device'or ratchet.
- The exemplary prusik knot illustrated above is made with webbing, however webbing is not recommended for heavier loads and / or securing a person since it has been shown to slip.
- It is useful when the friction hitch needs to be reset quickly / often or made to be self-tending as in crevasse and self-rescue . ( See Prusik knot)
- The method requires the soloer to feed out an estimated length of belay rope so that he can reach his next stance and repeat the process as the rope is difficult to feed through the prusik knot while climbing.
- Harding struggled fifteen hours and placed 28 expansion bolts by hand through the night up an overhanging headwall, topping out at 6 AM . The whole thing had taken 45 days, with more than of climbing including huge'pendulum'swings across the face; and uncounted'mileage'of laboriously hauling bags with prusik knots up ropes and sliding by'rappelling'back down.